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Where to climb in the Balearics: cliffs, via ferrata and deep water soloing

· La rédaction
Mallorca invented psicobloc (deep water soloing) in the late 1970s: the guide to climbing in the Balearics, island by island.

Mallorca is the world birthplace of "psicobloc" (deep water soloing, rope-free climbing above the sea), invented on its limestone cliffs in the late 1970s. The archipelago now offers a genuine vertical playground, from cliffs to gyms to via ferrata, with Menorca and Ibiza developing more recently. Here is where to climb, by level.

Where does psicobloc come from, and where can you practise it?

Mallorcan climber Miquel Riera invented the discipline in 1978 at the Cova del Dimoni (Porto Pi), before opening several iconic sites with other local pioneers in the late 1980s. The discipline went international in 2001-2002, when British climber Mike Robertson published an article in Climber magazine describing 29 routes, triggering an influx of foreign climbers. Riera died in October 2019, aged 56.

SiteLevelWorth knowing
Cova del Diablo (Porto Cristo)AdvancedNicknamed the "world capital of psicobloc", nearly 30 routes
Es Pontas (east coast)Elite levelRock arch, route opened by Chris Sharma (9a+), made famous by the film King Lines
Cala Barques (north)AdvancedSeveral caves, the "Big Mamma" route (8a+)
Porto Pi / Cala VarquesBeginnerRecommended sites to start the discipline

The activity is generally practised from April to October, in calm seas and at high tide, checking for submerged rocks first. A Natura 2000 regulation covers access to several coves in the Serra de Tramuntana and the Llevant coast during the nesting period (roughly February to June depending on the zone), to protect species including the peregrine falcon and the osprey: check current restrictions before you go, these zones change from year to year.

Where can you do via ferrata in the Balearics?

The Torrent de Pareis, in the Serra de Tramuntana near Escorca, is not an equipped via ferrata in the classic sense, but a technical canyon descent with unprotected climbing sections, reserved for experienced hikers (a guide is strongly recommended, and it should be avoided after rain due to flash-flood risk). The Castell d'Alaro combines via ferrata with a historic site. Several professional operators offer guided outings with equipment supplied, a required step, since via ferrata is not practised freely in the Balearics. No via ferrata site has been identified in Menorca, Ibiza or Formentera at present.

What if you want to climb indoors?

Useful outside season or in bad weather: Rocodrom Es Cau in Palma (bouldering, day entry 9 euros, monthly membership 49 euros), In Rock Escalada in Palma (more than 120 boulder problems and roped routes), Ibiza Vertical Center in Sant Josep de sa Talaia (adult entry from 7 euros), and Es Roco in Formentera, the island's first bouldering gym. Menorca has the Rocodromo de Ferreries, open since 2009 specifically for climbing in winter when the outdoor cliffs are unusable.

Menorca and Ibiza: a real scene, even if less known

Menorca has several coastal limestone sites (Cavalleria, Cala Morell, Cales Coves, Cala Mitjana), with close to 190 routes recorded across 8 cliffs. In April 2025, the Consell de Menorca funded, with the Unio Excursionista de Menorca, the replacement of corroded steel anchors with titanium, starting with Cavalleria and Son Bou, a sign of active institutional development. In Ibiza, climbing arrived as early as 1989 in the Buda sector, still the island's historic reference, with several hundred routes recorded.

Frequently asked questions

Do you need a guide for psicobloc or via ferrata in the Balearics?

Not compulsory for psicobloc at publicly accessible sites, but strongly advised for a beginner. For via ferrata, a professional guide with equipment supplied is the norm, since these sites are not practised freely.

Can you climb year-round in the Balearics?

Psicobloc's high season runs from April to October. For classic cliff climbing, winter stays workable at many sites, with gyms as a backup in bad weather.

For other outdoor activities in the archipelago, our guide to hiking in the Balearics and our overview of water sports in the Balearics round out this vertical tour.

Information verified in August 2026. The Daily Baleares is an AI-assisted publication with human review.

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